Turning a new grape variety into wine

Japanese wines are earning growing recognition around the world. At Okayama University of Science (OUS), efforts to advance wine education and research began in 2017 with the establishment of the Institute of Viticulture and Enology and the launch of its Wine Project Program. Now entering its 10th year, the initiative continues to evolve, bringing together education, research, product development, and engagement with the local community.

The Institute of Viticulture and Enology opened in April 2017 on the second floor of Building B1 at the university’s Okayama Campus. Its laboratories are equipped with gas and liquid chromatographs for analyzing aromas and chemical components instruments for measuring alcohol content, spectrophotometers for analyzing color and concentration, and other equipment used in winemaking research.

The institute is currently led by Director Akihiro Kaneko, a professor at OUS, and Assistant Director Masahiro Kawamata, an associate professor.

76 students have completed the program

Education has been a central part of the project from the beginning. Since the 2017 academic year, OUS has offered Wine Project courses covering grapes, wine, and fermented foods.

Students begin in their first year with introductory courses on grapes and wine, as well as grape cultivation and enology. They later move on to hands-on Wine Project training, where they grow grapes, make wine, and conduct sensory evaluations. To date, 76 students have received certificates for completing the program.

Research activities also began in the institute’s first year. Experts from breweries, wineries, and other industry organizations were invited to the inaugural Institute of Viticulture and Enology Symposium, held under the theme “Exploring the Science of Japanese Wine and Sake.” The symposium continued annually through the 2019 academic year, before the COVID-19 pandemic.

Development of a new grape variety— and new products

In September 2022, a research group led by Takuji Hoshino, professor emeritus and former director of the institute, succeeded in developing a new wine grape called “Muscut Shiragai.” The variety was created by crossing Shiraga-budo, a wild grape native exclusively to the Takahashi River basin in Okayama Prefecture with Muscat of Alexandria. In 2025, Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries accepted the application to register Muscat Shiragai as a new grape variety.

That same year, the institute collaborated with Kamikokoro Sake Brewery in Asaluchi-city, Okayama Prefecture, to develop “Kamikokoro,” a junmai ginjo sake made using yeast isolated from Muscat of Alexandria grapes.

The institute also attracted attention for another unusual experiment: working with Okayama Prefectural University and other partners, researchers produced wine using yeast isolated from crickets.

Bringing wine science into the community

The project’s activities extend well beyond the laboratory and classroom.

In 2023, wine made by OUS students was served for the opening toast at the third “Wine ni Koishite Tokimeite, one of the largest wine festivals in Okayama Prefecture, adding a distinctly local touch to the opening ceremony.

Students also participated in “Hokancho Akinight,” a community revitalization event, where they operated a booth offering samples of grape juice from partner organization Funato Winery. Through events like these, the project has sought to build stronger connections between the university, local producers, and the surrounding community.

Sake and wine overseen by OUS researcher win international honors

The institute’s expertise has also earned recognition overseas.

In 2025, “Junmai -eme-,” a sake produced by Kamikokoro Sake Brewery under the supervision of Institute Director Kaneko, received a Platinum Award at Kura Master, a French competition in which Japanese alcoholic beverages are evaluated by French judges.

The following year, Kaneko achieved another international distinction. “Aldebaran,” a wine he supervised that was made with grapes grown in Ibara-city, Okayama Prefecture and produced by Yokohama Winery, received a Gold Award in the Muscat Bailey A category at the 2026 Kura Master competition.

Beyond these achievements, the institute collaborates with neighboring universities, local and regional governments, breweries, wineries, and other partners to train people with the expertise needed to contribute to regional communities and industries.

A passion for making wine from a new grape

For Kaneko, the next step is to bring several strands of the institution’s research together in a wine that is distinctly rooted in Okayama.

“For now, I’d like to make wine from Muscat Shiragai using yeast that our university has discovered locally,” Kaneko said. “If we can use a truly local wine to help energize the region, I couldn’t ask for anything more.”

Kaneko, a passionate advocate for wine and wine science, is now focused on turning the newly developed grape into a wine of its own.

As the Wine Project enters its second decade, it is also expected to continue cultivating a new generation of people who can contribute to the future of winemaking in Japan.